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The Jura: A Swiss-French Training & Travel Guide

Skiwalking in the Swiss Jura. (Photo: Roli Eggspühler)

Skiwalking in the Swiss Jura. (Photo: Roli Eggspühler)

Coming from North America, I often think that the other side of whatever country I’m in is very, very far away.

Happily, here in Switzerland things are a little closer together. I live in Zürich and while the nearest big mountains are at least an hour away, nothing is very far. Going south or southwest through the Alps takes a few hours, but driving across the Swiss Plateau to the French border is easier.

A few weeks ago I was able to take part in a training camp in Les Cernets, which is on the border with France. Literally, after dropping our bags off at the inn where we were staying, Fabian and I ran up a hill a few kilometers and peered into the European Union. We followed a well-marked trail and there was a small monument at the top of the height of land. Anyone could take this route into France, although of course you have to get into Switzerland first, which is no easy feat.

(Certainly there was no border station on our running trail; even the one on the main road in Les Verrières, the bigger town, appeared to be minimally manned and just waved cars through without stopping.)

The camp I joined was with the Swiss Academic Ski Team (SAS), a group of college and older athletes. Once you are a member (I’m not), you’re a member for life, so a few masters-aged athletes also join us and sometimes kick our butts.

cowsAt camps we train hard, double sessions a day like the pros, but only for a few days. I can’t speak for the others, but for myself, I then go back to work, train fairly minimally, and engage in magical thinking to assure myself that these few days will somehow make a difference come winter…

Ironically, the team doesn’t have any athletes I’ve met so far from the French part of Switzerland. But in an effort for geographic fairness and also to keep things new and interesting, we went there.

We spent three days in the Jura mountains. It’s at the same time remote and not remote; growing up in the Upper Valley of New Hampshire and Vermont, I felt right at home. The area is a mix of farms and forest, with some small homestead always hidden behind the next roll of the hill. But the city of Neuchâtel isn’t far, and in no time at all you are back on the big lake, feeling like you’re in metropolitan Switzerland.

There are a lot of dairy farms in the Jura. We missed, by just a few days, the annual festival where the cows walk from the high meadows down to town with flowers braided around their horns. On the main road you can find an unmanned, automated cheese vending machine with the local wares.

morningThis is the region that absinthe comes from, and you can imagine perfectly how even when it was outlawed, production continued just the same. There are infinite places to hide things and you can’t travel too fast on the country roads. All you need to do is call your neighbor to warn him someone was coming, and he could take care of his materials no problem.

The mascot of the Val de Travers region of Canton Neuchâtel region is a small green fairy, and it is plastered everywhere.

Come to the grocery store! With the absinthe fairy.

Take the train! With the absinthe fairy.

Stay at our hotel! With the absinthe fairy.

Here’s some highway information! With the absinthe fairy.

On our last night we tried some absinthe, which probably ruined our training effect. We stuck to one glass each and, it turns out, did not see the absinthe fairy. Shoot, I’ll have to try some again some other time.

creux du van 1But about that training effect: the Jura is a great place to train. There are tons of trails through the forest, some of which are ski trails. Les Cernets is connected to hundreds of kilometers of ski trails, including a few long point-to-point trails like the 65 k Franco-Suisse loop, where you can do inn-to-inn touring. I can’t wait to come explore in the winter.

Jogging the farm roads in the morning through the fog felt mystical. And in the forest, clearings, bogs, and other areas are given fairy-tale names painted on old, peeling signs.

I was also thrilled to return to Creux du Van, a huge rock cliff formation which I had hiked with a friend in the spring. The closest thing I can compare it to is Cannon cliffs in New Hampshire – if you made Cannon much more even and bent it in a gently arching bowl around the valley. And plopped a picturesque farm and some happily grazing cows on top.

Creux du Van speaks to almost everyone, I think. My housemate told me that being up there, with hundreds of meters of empty space in front of you and birds playing on the wind, gives you power.

Sometimes that kind of phrase can sound woo-woo, but when you stand on Creux du Van, it’s not inaccurate.

rollerskiing 2But that’s not why we came to the Jura. A short drive into France is a rollerski loop at the Stade Florence Baverel in Arçon. So every day we would drive to France to ski.

(Inaugurated in 2009, the venue is named after the French gold medalist from the 2006 Olympics. You can also rollerski around the biathlon stadium in Le Seigne, a bit south in the Département Doubs, but we didn’t check it out. Prémanon, the training site for the French national team, is also only an hour away.)

The center has a nice biathlon range, a few kilometers of paved trails to train on. I would describe it as if John Morton had been given the assignment to design some kilometers of trail, but only given half the space that he’s usually given in North America. (After all, there’s less space for basically everything in Europe.) And, in this scenario he was also denied vital information about the length of classic rollerski shafts.

So it was with some trepidation that I first set out around the course. I’m not a particularly timid downhill skier, but the turns are, umm, very tight – and there’s a pretty decent height differential given the tiny postage stamp of land the center is crammed onto, so you come into them with momentum.

There were posters all over the main building for the French biathlon festivals hosted at the venue. I was trying to imagine mass start or even pursuit racing on such narrow trails with such sharp corners. I pictured carnage. I’m interested to try to find video of how it actually works.

That said, once I’d made a few trips around the loop, I wasn’t nervous and instead the twists and turns just made for super fun skiing. One corner was still a little dicey on classic skis, but on skate skis you can tear around with little fear of serious repercussions, at least if you don’t get tangled up with someone else.

It’s an excellent, and tough, loop for intervals. There’s not much recovery because the downhills are short and technical, so you’re always on your toes. And with limited places to easily pass, it’s good practice for rubbing elbows and making tactical choices in where to use your speed… for instance, before the beginning of the next downhill!

I was a bit sad to go back to Zürich and work, and away from the Jura and Doubs regions which seem to be a perfect playground for training in summer and winter.

JURA TRAVEL GUIDE

Getting There

You can take a train to Les Verrières from anywhere in Switzerland (or western France.) But to take advantage of the area, it’s best to have a car. Rent and drive from any major city; you can fly into Geneva (an hour and a half drive) or Zürich (two and a half hours).

Where to Stay

In Les Cernets, stay at Hôtel Des Cernets (website). There’s no bus up to here, but the plus side is that once you get there you are right on the running trails and can ski from the parking lot in winter. The inn is run by a former skier. Rooms are sparse, but clean and you don’t need much more. You can arrange half-board or full-board to include meals, which are copious and tasty. As one camp participant said: “It’s perfect: if the rooms were a little nicer, I still wouldn’t sleep any better, but the food is the best it could be.”

Hôtel Des Cernets at dusk: charming.

Hôtel Des Cernets at dusk: charming.

There’s also hotels down in Les Verrières proper (for example, Hôtel de Ville: website), and you can run or ski up to Les Cernets. Pontarlier is the large French town on the way to Arçon, and would also be a convenient and cheaper place to stay, at least in the summer (Tripadvisor reviews here). Caveat: I can’t personally vouch for any of the hotels outside Les Cernets.

Running and Skiing

Trails are exceptionally well-marked in Switzerland: yellow for hiking trails, often with indications of where you might find a train or bus stop, and green for ski trails. That said, it’s nice to have the names of where you want to start and end and maybe a few places along the way. We managed to get lost, but of course because of the signs it’s only ever temporary.

(website for trail network here)

Hiking

There are two main access points for Creux du Van: Noiraigue and Travers. Hiking up from Travers is a bit longer and more gradual, and also less crowded. But if you go up from Noiraigue, you can see a population of ibex which were introduced to the area in 1965 and have since grown to a sizeable herd.

creux du van 2

The hike itself is not especially long. To make a longer trip, try to arrange a point-to point along the Gorges de l’Areuse, some spectacular waterfalls, and ending in Boudry on the Lake of Neuchâtel or cutting uphill to some of the small villages on the point-to-point ski tails. You can take the train back to the start or vice versa.

gorges de lareuse

Trails are good for running.

Screen Shot 2015-08-30 at 9.41.34 AM

Rollerskiing

About the venue: here

Contact: here

There’s a YouTube video of the stadium here.

rollerskiing high point

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